How To Change The Cabin Air Filter on a PT Cruiser

Changing the cabin air filter on a PT Cruiser is quite straight forward but due to it being completely hidden from view it's one of those jobs that's easy to do, when you know how.

Skill level:

• Easy

Time required:

• Thirty minutes

Tools required:

• No. 2 Sized Philips / Crosshead Screwdriver
• Long Nose / Needle Nose Pliers
• 10mm Socket & Ratchet

Parts required:

• 05058040AA - Cabin Air Filter

First things first, make sure you have the right part. I used a Mopar filter, there are other brands available. It'll look like this (click on any image to enlarge it):

Note the "AIR FLOW" directional allow, when fitted this arrow needs to point to the inside of the car:

Start by placing your wipers in the "up" position (simply turn off the ignition to keep them there), this will allow you a bit more room to play with:

Next, remove the rubber bung on the bonnet / hood stop. This will give you another millimetre or two of clearance:

Remove the four Philips screws and their captive nuts / retainers. With the screws removed you can pull out the captives with some long nose pliers. There are two here:

And another two here:

This is what they look like when removed:

Also worth mentioning at this point, is that the holes for the captive nuts are square:

When you're putting them back in to the holes, be sure to line them up as square, otherwise you'll break off one of the legs.

Now for the tricky part, you need to remove the cowling.

Start by lifting it up at the long side nearest the engine.

You'll see that the cowling is tucked underneath the rain shield at the bottom of the windscreen. It will flex a bit and it's quite strong plastic so don't be afraid to bend it a little if you need to.

I found that the bonnet prop bar was in the way so I stood at the side of the car and held the bonnet up with my shoulder, this allowed the cowling to come out a lot easier. Don't drop the bonnet!

Once removed, the cowling looks like this:

Next, you need to remove the 2x 10mm bolts that hold the washer fluid bottle in place:

With the bolts removed, pull the washer fluid bottle back to give you just enough space to access the filter:

Depending on the year of your car, you may have a plastic grille in front of the filter, if so simply unclip it from the top. If like mine, there is no plastic grille, simply remove the filter by pulling it towards you:

If like mine, yours has never been changed since the day your car left the factory, it'll be pretty dirty and completed clogged up (again, click any photo to enlarge it):

Just think, if it wasn't for the filter, all that dirt would be inside your car!

Here's a comparison of the old and new filters side by side:

Nasty...

Your new filter will simply push in to place, don't forget to check the direction of the arrow on the top, you want it pointing towards the inside of the car.

Putting everything back together again is simply the reverse of the removal procedure above.

Make sure you tuck the cowling under the windscreen rain shield as you're fitting it back in. Again, I found it easier if I took the weight of the bonnet on my shoulder so I could fold down the bonnet prop.

Be sure to check out my other PT Cruiser How To Guides!

PT Cruiser Official Parts Catalog - FREE DOWNLOAD

For your downloading pleasure, here are the official Chrysler PT Cruiser Parts Catalogues for you to download.

There is one parts catalog for each year and I have put all seven PDF files in one ZIP file for you here.

Each catalog contains over 600 pages of parts and is the same catalog your Chrysler main dealer uses.

In the past I was able to offer PDF downloads free of charge but unfortunately, due to high bandwidth hosting costs, I now need to charge a very small fee for my downloads.

The download price is just £0.99p (approx $1.52 / €1.88 depending on your exchange rate)

To download the PDF, simply click on the Buy Now button below where you'll be taken to a PayPal checkout where you can use your existing PayPal account. If you don't have a PayPal account you can checkout with any major credit card:

After purchase, you will receive an email containing a link to download your PDF file.

The 32nd mod, The USA-SPEC PA11-CHR iPhone / iPod OEM Interface

I've been using FM Transmitters for a while now to allow either an iPod or an iPhone to play music through the car radio.

FM Transmitters are handy and some of them are quite good, but there are just so many problems with them. All of them.

The problems might seem small, but to someone who loves his music, the problems are huge. And very annoying.

There is a constant background noise, nobody else can apparently hear it but I can, it's like a faint hiss. FM Transmitters are also quieter than the radio or a CD so when you change modes or music sources the volume comes blaring out and deafens everyone!

Also, an FM Transmitter might work fine in one area but if you drive a few miles down the road a more powerful local radio station will often come through over the top, killing your music. Another annoyance is that if there is no sound coming from the iPod or iPhone some higher-end FM Transmitters (FMTs) go in to a 'sleep' mode and stop transmitting completely. This is terrible if all you are using at the time on your iPhone is a sat-nav app. You need to hear the spoken instructions which come out ok via FMT but if no instructions are spoken for sixty seconds the unit goes in to sleep mode. The moment it does that your radio blares out some crackling white-noise as it's just lost its signal. Very, very annoying. So annoying that it's easier to drive around with the radio off completely - making the sat-nav a bit useless.

Enough was enough, I needed a proper solution.

Step in a manufacturer called USA•SPEC!

USA•SPEC are the self-proclaimed "leaders in OEM iPod Integration" (which after using their products, I am inclined to believe they are too!). They make kits that connect directly to your existing OEM head unit via the AUX port or CD Changer port and they cleverly fool your radio in to thinking it has a CD changer attached when in actual fact it has your iPod or iPhone attached instead.

The end result?

Completely uninterupted, CD quality, CRYSTAL CLEAR audio in your car, directly from your Apple device. And I mean, crystal clear.

Now USA•SPEC don't sell direct to the public, you have to buy from a reseller. I chose a firm on eBay called Integrated Solutions. I shopped around for a while and contacted a few sellers on eBay but Integrated Solutions came up trumps for a few reasons. One reason was the speed of their response to an enquiry about compatibility, another was their price (they were cheaper than everyone else) and last but not least was the amount of detail in their eBay listing, it tells you everything you need to know. Being based in the UK, I wasn't sure they'd ship from America but a quick email confirmed that it wasn't a problem at all.

My PT Cruiser had a very low spec radio built in so I had to upgrade it as mine didn't even have a port on the back to connect a CD Changer (meaning this unit wouldn't have had anything to plug in to).

With my radio upgraded, I placed the order. It arrived in just ten days, all the way from Texas, USA. Well packaged and very quick considering the distance it travelled to get to me. I was very impressed with Integrated Solutions and would fully recommend them to anyone.

What arrived in the package was the USA•SPEC PA11-CHR kit itself, plus an additional (free!) 3.5mm lead which allows you to connect auxillary devices such as other mobile phones, dvd players, etc. Anything with a headphone socket it on it really. Click on any photo here to enlarge it:

Opening up the package revealed a very (very!) clever box of tricks, plus two cables. One to connect to the radio, the other to connect to the iPod or iPhone:

Fitting this kit couldn't be easier, it really couldn't. No additional tools are required, no cutting of wires, no splicing, no blue Scotch Locks, nothing. It's a dream to fit, literally 'plug and play'. Read on!

If you're unsure of how to remove the radio from your Cruiser, see my How To Remove or Replace the Head Unit / Radio / Stereo on a PT Cruiser guide first.

With the radio removed, plug the iPod cable to the white control box like so:

The remaining cable then plugs in to the radio port on the white box:

With the two wires connected there is plenty of room to hide the control module under the radio behind the switch bank:

Once hidden, the module simply plugs directly in to the radio. In my case, in to the CD Changer socket on the back:

The other end of the wire you can then route out to the iPod or iPhone, anywhere you like (it's about 6ft long!). You could have it coming out in to the glove box or out to the centre console, etc. I've got mine coming out to a Brodit cradle so I get in the car, drop the phone in the cradle and that's it. Nothing else to do, press, connect, etc. It's "drop and play":

When you turn your radio on and select the CD Changer mode, with no phone connected you get a "NO MAG" message on the radio. At this point the radio thinks the CD Changer is connected and no CD magazine is inside the changer. Plug your iPod or iPhone in and this message changes instantly:

When you do connect your iPhone a message pops up on the screen saying "This accessory is no optimized for this iPhone". You can either click on 'Dismiss' or leave it and the message disappears on its own after 15 seconds or so:

When you play your music the display on your radio changes to show it's playing what it thinks is a CD from the changer but of course it's now playing from your iPod or iPhone:

And that's pretty much it really.

The end result?

No interference, no re-tuning the radio every time you drive through a different town, no sleep mode and radio white-noise, you're just left with CD quality audio, pure silence between tracks and no hiss.

Additional bonuses are that you can also control the tracks playing on your iPod or iPhone using the buttons on your radio. For example, if you push the 'next track' button on your radio then your iPod jumps to the next track - very clever stuff. If you have steering wheel controls fitted, they will now control the iPod too. Some other adaptors or modules 'lock' the iPhone when connected meaning you can't use the buttons or screen but not this one! You can still use TomTom based sat-nav AND have full control over the iPhone to play your music at the same time.

The module also charges your iPod / iPhone too. It even charges the iPhone 4!

It couldn't be more perfect, it really couldn't.

Get in touch with Integrated Solutions, they'll sort you out!

Modifications to date: Parrot CK3100 Bluetooth Hands Free Phone Kit, Debadged Tailgate, 'Semi-Stealth TomTom' Satellite Navigation, Chrome Wheels, Chrome Belt Line, Chrome Indicator Bulbs (Front), Chrome Fuel Door, Clear Side Repeaters, Chrome Indicator Bulbs (Sides), Altezza Rear Lights, Chrome Indicator Bulbs (Rear), Chrome Door Handle Recess Trims, Stealth iPod FM Transmitter, Mopar Front Fog Lights, 8 Ball Gear Knob, Port Holes, 8 Ball Door Lock Pins, 8 Ball Cigarette Lighter, 3rd Brake Light Decal, Sony Xplod Subwoofer, Altezza Fog Lights, Twin Fog & Reversing Lights, LED Fog Light Bulbs, Chrome Tailpipe Trim, Parking Sensors, ScanGauge II, Headrest Springs, Billet Steering Wheel Spoke Covers, Accurate DIY GPS Tracker, Custom iPhone Car Kit, Upgraded Stereo.

The 31st mod, upgraded head unit / radio / stereo

It's been another absolute age since I last did a mod, I guess I've done that much to the car that I'm now running out of things to do!

This latest mod sees the head unit / radio / stereo / call-it-what-you-will get upgraded.

There was nothing wrong with the original radio, but you'll see why I had to upgrade in order to facilitate the 32nd mod.

I've learnt the hard way in the past with car radios, often upgrading them to very high spec after-market units. The major down side with this is that some thieving toerag always comes along and either bricks the window of the car or screwdrivers the door lock out in order to then steal said radio. Having had this happen to me twice, I wasn't going to let it happen a third time so I opted for an OEM Chrysler upgraded radio as no one in the right mind would want to steal it as due to the unusual shape it will only fit a handful of models, unlike an aftermarket DIN-fitting radio.

Here is the old and trustworthy radio, click any photo to enlarge it:

You'll note the covered up socket on the back with 'DO NOT OPEN' stamped on it. On the higher spec radio, this is replaced with a socket for a CD Changer.

Some photos of the new radio. Well, not brand new, in fact a second hand bargain from eBay for just £33.33, delivered!

Again, click on any image to enlarge:

Some of the noticable differences are that this new head unit has a cassette tape player in it where the old one just had a blanking plate.

More importantly (again, this will become apparent when you read the 32nd mod) is the addition of a CD Changer socket on the back and the obvious additional buttons on the front to support it.

The new head unit also has a flashing red light on the front when the ignition is turned off.

Let me know in the box below if you have any comments or questions!

Related Posts: How To Remove or Replace the Head Unit / Radio / Stereo on a PT Cruiser

Modifications to date: Parrot CK3100 Bluetooth Hands Free Phone Kit, Debadged Tailgate, 'Semi-Stealth TomTom' Satellite Navigation, Chrome Wheels, Chrome Belt Line, Chrome Indicator Bulbs (Front), Chrome Fuel Door, Clear Side Repeaters, Chrome Indicator Bulbs (Sides), Altezza Rear Lights, Chrome Indicator Bulbs (Rear), Chrome Door Handle Recess Trims, Stealth iPod FM Transmitter, Mopar Front Fog Lights, 8 Ball Gear Knob, Port Holes, 8 Ball Door Lock Pins, 8 Ball Cigarette Lighter, 3rd Brake Light Decal, Sony Xplod Subwoofer, Altezza Fog Lights, Twin Fog & Reversing Lights, LED Fog Light Bulbs, Chrome Tailpipe Trim, Parking Sensors, ScanGauge II, Headrest Springs, Billet Steering Wheel Spoke Covers, Accurate DIY GPS Tracker, Custom iPhone Car Kit.

How To Remove or Replace the Head Unit / Radio / Stereo on a PT Cruiser

Removing the radio from a PT Cruiser is quite straight forward but due to hidden clips and screws, it's one of those jobs that's easy to do, when you know how.

Skill level:

• Easy

Time required:

• Ten minutes the first time around, five minutes when you've done it a few times before

Tools required:

• Pliers
• Old rag
• No. 2 Sized Philips / Crosshead Screwdriver

Health and Saftey says you should always disconnect the battery before removing the radio. I've never needed to do this, but consider yourself advised accordingly.

Start by removing the electric window switch bank which is simply clipped in place. Hold the two top buttons and give them a tug straight outwards - the switch assembly will pop out:

With the switch assembly removed, you'll see the wiring harness attached to the back. To stop the multiplug falling off (I can't see this ever happening to be honest, it's not loose), it is held in place by a red locking clip:

Simply slide the red locking clip upwards with your thumb, then hold in the black catch on the right and disconnect the multiplug:

The next step is to remove the single philips / crosshead screw that is keeping the centre dashboard console / fascia in place:

With the screw removed, you then need to remove the heater dials. They are simply pushed on and will pull straight off. To avoid scratching them, place an old rag over the dial then pull them off with the aid of some pliers - they're quite tough to get off due to them being curved:

Now with the window switch bank removed, the philips screw removed and the heater dials removed, your dash should look like this:

The entire fascia is now just held in place with a series of clips. Put your fingers inside the opening where the window switch was and pull outwards. The clips are strong so you'll need a sharp tug. The top of the fascia should pop out like so:

Once the top of the fascia has popped out, run your fingers down the outsides of the fascia and try to pull the fascia off as "square" as you can. The clips that hold it in place are large and won't take kindly to being pulled at an angle so keep it square / straight as you remove it. Don't pull it from the top down, something will snap. Keep it straight. Once the fascia is removed, you'll be left with something like this:

Now the really easy part. The radio is held in with four screws, one at each corner. Remove all four:

You can now pull the radio out. As per the fascia, keep it straight. There is not a lot of slack on the cables behind the radio so go gently. The first wire to disconnect is the antenna cable on the right hand side (as it's the one with the least slack). To disconnect it, pull the black plastic part, not the silver part:

With the antenna disconnected, you'll have more room to reach behind and disconnect the multiplug. This photo shows just one multiplug. Depending on your radio spec, you may have two (one will be for the cd changer if fitted). Depress the white clip in the middle and pull the plug off:

You'll now be left with an empty dashboard:

Re-fitting / re-assembly is a direct reverse of the above.

If you have any comments or questions, ask in the box below.